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It’s green grass and high tides forever when it comes to autumn redfish in the Southeast. Throw in some great sight casting, and you’ve got a memorable fly-fishing road trip.
The plan was elegantly simple.
I would drive from my central Florida home
to North Carolina, and then fly fish my
way back along the coasts of the Carolinas
and Georgia. With red drum as the target
species, I planned to pair up with local
guides (and a few friends) along the way for
a two-week road trip in classic southeastern
redfish country. So, after months of planning,
I hopped into the chariot and set
off on the 12-hour drive from
the Mosquito Lagoon to Morehead
City, North Carolina, to start
my redfishing adventure. What I learned
along the way home will help any angler
who finds himself in any of these premier
southeastern destinations.
Tarheel State Reds
To kick off the trip, my friend Steve Baker and I met Capt.
Joe Shute on a chilly autumn morning in front of Joe’s shop
in Atlantic Beach, North Carolina. Joe soon had us zipping
across the water, headed for the salt marshes that lie inside
Beaufort Inlet. “We have redfish twelve months of the year,”
Joe said. “Probably the best time for tailing fish is from the
end of July through September. At the
beginning of October the fish start
schooling up, and we do real well from
then into January, sight-fishing to big
schools of fish. We still have tailing fish
then, too, just not quite as many. We
have an outgoing tide now, so we’ll see
what we find when we get there.”
What Joe found was a small tidal
pond, maybe two or three acres in size,
that was just full of redfish. The pond
was draining down a small creek. Joe
put his skiff in the middle of the creek,
and the fish just kept on coming, wave
after wave of hungry, dumb fish. What they lacked size, they
made up for in numbers and attitude.
“During the winter I like a high outgoing tide,” Joe
explained. “But if the water’s cool, and you have a shallowdraft
skiff, you can stay right in through low water. It really
doesn’t seem to matter to the fish very much. I catch fish at
dead-low water. They pod up in the middle of these
little bays, and they are extremely easy to see, and
they will still take flies readily. As long as you sit there
and don’t make a lot of noise, those fish will keep circling
through the basin and you can catch some on
every pass if you work them right.”
One of the many things I learned on this trip was that along much of the Atlantic seaboard there are
two distinct redfishing times, both dictated by the
tides. There is the low-water fishery, during which
the fish are schooled up on shallow mud flats, and
there’s the high-water fishery, during which the fish
are on top of the marsh, foraging for fiddler crabs in
the spartina grass.
One place this is not true, however, is in upper
Pamlico Sound. There the situation is very different,
and two days later, Steve and I were speeding across an
apparently endless expanse of water, away from the village of
Oriental, with Capt. Gary Dubiel. The water we ran across
was the confluence of the Neuse River with Pamlico Sound.
There is a tremendous amount of shoreline here, and this area
is the biggest breeding ground for red drum in North
Carolina. It boasts a lot of adult red drum that move during
the summer months to spawn and huge populations of
juvenile fish that spend from three to five years in this area
before moving out to the Atlantic and joining the schools of
adult fish.
“We have a lot of tree-lined shorelines, so we can usually
find spots that are protected from the wind.” said Dubiel. “We
have a wide variety of habitats, from creek fishing to very openwater
fishing, depending on the time of the year and the size of
the fish that we’re pursuing. We have everything from open
marsh grass fishing to very wooded, lakelike situations.
“We have a non-tidal estuary here, with some variations
in the fishery without a lunar rise and fall in tide. We do not
have crystal-clear water, either, so we do a lot more blindcasting
than sight-fishing. But we get high numbers, especially
on fish less than 25 inches.”
When we arrived at the fishing grounds, the water was
indeed dark. Fishing was fairly slow, but by blind-casting a
large white Clouser Minnow with an intermediate line we
picked up a variety of species, including pinfish, seatrout,
bluefish, flounder, black drum, and puppy drum. Then Steve
spotted a fish cruising right along the shoreline, and a perfect
cast resulted in a strike. A few minutes later Gary swung an
eight-pound redfish aboard, the best fish of the trip so far.
At Wilmington I found myself stepping aboard a skiff
with two young edgy guides named Eddie Stewart and Seth
Vernon, formerly a co-owner of the Intracoastal Angler, a fly
shop in Wilmington, North Carolina. During the run up
the Intracoastal Waterway past a collection of very impressive
homes, Seth noted with dismay the height of the tide. “I like
to fish the bottom half of the falling tide or the first half of
the rising tide. The fish seem to be most active then. With
this high-tide the water is way too deep for me to fish effectively.”
Eddie brought us deep into the marsh to some of his
favorite high-water spots, but even he wasn’t happy with the
depth of the water. Everywhere I went on this trip they were
experiencing the highest tides in several years, and it definitely
affected the fishing this morning.
One thing about areas with tides, though: Wait a short
while and the water level changes. As the water got skinny
my hosts located a school of at least 50 redfish. We took turns
on the rod, and all had success with fish up to 30 inches.
Legendary Lowcountry
It’s hard to beat a salt marsh as a place to watch the sun rise,
and a couple of days later Richard Stuhr and I witnessed a
beauty from his skiff. There were fish tailing, deer bounding
off through the water after they sniffed our scent, purple
martins diving and wheeling just above the water’s surface.
Richard wouldn’t let me bring a rod during our foray. “If
you’re going to take pictures, you can’t bring a rod. You’ll
see a fish and all thoughts of picture taking will disappear.”
Richard knows me well, since most of time I would rather
cast to a fish than photograph someone else doing so. While
I’ve had superb fishing with him in the past, the high water
again had the reds very scattered throughout the marsh and
hard to see. Richard had only one decent shot and
failed to convert, and finding the Charleston fish
uncooperative, I decided to move on down the road.
Southwest of Charleston off Highway 17,
Beaufort, South Carolina, has a healthy dollop of
old-style Southern charm, featuring many historic
manor homes, fine restaurants, art galleries, and
shops. If you’re an angler, one of the nicest shops is
Bay Street Outfitters, owned by Tony Royal. Tony
had arranged for Steve Baker and I to borrow a pair
of kayaks from David Gorzynski at Beaufort Kayak
Tours. Tony supplied us with a map to the spot
where the fish were supposed to be thick. The rest
was up to us.
As it turned out, Steve wasn’t up for much activity, saying
something about “last night.” And kayaking wasn’t an option
at first anyway since the tide had not yet come in. So, I put on
wading booties and went out looking for it. When the water
did come in, I was quickly knee deep in the marsh.
If you’ve ever gone to a place for the first time and don’t
know the drill, you know that self-doubt comes all too easily.
I was just thinking to myself, “If I see a fish, it will be a
miracle,” when that miracle happened. A fat fish was wallowing
through the grass about 60 feet away. I waded into
position and let fly with a cast. The first one missed by a bit
too much, but the second cast was right on. The fish rushed
the Bunny Booger like it hadn’t eaten in a month, and next
thing I was chasing it through the grass. It made the solo
adventure all worthwhile.
The next morning, local guide Tuck Scott picked Steve
and I up at the landing at a very civilized starting time of 10
a.m. to fish the high tide. Tuck soon had us on fish, and I
quickly blew three straight shots, gave up in disgust, and
handed the rod to Mr. Baker. Using his version of the Bunny
Booger, he caught the first fish he saw. I got up on the poling
tower and Tuck took the rod. He, too, got the first fish he
saw. By now the water was starting to fall again, and the
fish disappeared.
As we returned to the dock Tuck talked to us about fishing
these marshes. “You have to know what to look for to
find fish on the tailing tides. Any area that has a good entry
and exit point where fish can get up on the spartina grass flat
at one point and get off at a different point is good. They will
use flats where they come and go from the same entrance,
but there will be more fish if they have several entry and exit
points. These can be a small creek, or even just a little dip at
the lip of the flat, something they can use to get on top of
and off of the flat. They feel safer with as many different exit
points as possible.
“I prefer wading when fishing for tailers in the marsh.
You can’t spook them with the boat when you wade, and you
can get pretty close to them because they’re preoccupied.
Plus, it’s just you and the fish, which is very cool.”
Tuck’s favorite flies include the Dupre Spoonfly for
the tailers because it is so weedless and because fish attack it
aggressively. Any kind of Electric Chicken fly works well,
too. (Electric Chicken is a chartreuse and hot-pink color
combination in any given pattern.) Bunny flies with weed
guards work for redfish in any circumstance. A brown
Clouser Minnow works well, and crab patterns such as the
Merkin are always good to carry. Tuck likes his Merkin flies
to be very dark, such as black, dark purple, or dark brown.
There are a lot of other flies that will work here. You need
something that will get down when you’re not in the grass,
or something that’s good and weedless and will sink moderately
fast for tailers. These fish are not very picky.
Georgia Peaches
Even though Brunswick, Georgia is only a four hours’ drive
from my home, I had never fished there. Local guide Greg
Hildreth took Tom Mitzlaff and me onto an enormous salt
marsh, and again, a monster tide was in the offing. “Our normal
high tide here is about seven feet,” he said. “Today it’s
over ten. I think our window for these tailing fish will be short,
because the water is going to get too deep pretty quickly.”
Nonetheless, he put us on some fish right away. Tom
started off with a spoonfly, but the wind was honking and
the spoon kept sailing off target. “Do you have a fly that will
punch through the breeze better?” asked Greg. I rifled through
my box and tied on a black Bunny Booger.
Greg Hildreth and Tom Mitzlaff watched the fish approach,
tailing as it came. Then they sat silently
as I cast and missed, cast and missed
again. The breeze was playing havoc
with my casting accuracy, and the discolored
water demanded that it be
there. The fish was only 20 feet away
from Greg’s Mitzi when I just flopped
the Bunny Booger out in front of it.
We were all holding our breaths now
as I waited for the fish to close that last
six inches, wondering when it would
realize we were there. I finally twitched
the fly, and there was a boil as the fly
line came tight, and the fish began its
mad rush through the thick grass.
Then Tom took a turn on the pole
as Greg fished and I photographed
until the water was too deep to see any
more. Over lunch Greg told us about
his area. “Like many other places along
the East Coast we have a high-water
fishery on the big tides, reds tailing up
in the grass, eating fiddler crabs and shrimp. Then we also have
a low-tide fishery, which happens every day, all year long.
“The high-water fishery doesn’t last all year. It starts in
late March or April, when the fiddler crabs come out of
hibernation, out of the ground. That’s what the tailing reds
are keying on. It lasts into the fall, when it gets too cold for
the crabs, and they go into hibernation again.
“Our average tidal range is seven feet, with bigger tides
on either the new or full moon, depending on which month
it is. That varies. During the warmer months if you get a tide
in the eight-foot range you can get into the grass and find
those fish tailing.
“In the winter, or when I don’t have the big tides, I key
on low-water fishing. You can do this every day. The fish
congregate on mud flats to stay warm. Regardless of the tide,
the fish range between 22 and 32 inches, with the average
being between 26 and 30 inches.
“The winter months are our strongest months for this
size fish. They really gang up into large schools, and the
water is clearest then. During the summer you might see five
or six fish together as opposed to during the winter, when
you see 25 or 100 fish together. Because of that, winter fishing
is usually easier. But there’s no grass fishing then. That’s
always better during the summer.”
Greg brought us up into a tidal creek that afternoon
for some low-water fishing. The amount of shrimps and
small fish in the creek was simply amazing, huge quantities of
both. While we did see some reds, they weren’t moving very
much or feeding very aggressively. They certainly didn’t want
anything to do with our flies, as sometimes happens. We
pulled the boat out as the sun sank behind the trees, thankful
for the high-water fish we’d gotten that morning.
All good things must come to an end, and after two
weeks it was time to go home. On one hand, I felt lucky
because I had experienced some wonderful fishing with
some of the nicest people imaginable. Everything had gone
perfectly. On the other hand, I was sad that the trip had
gone by so quickly. It hardly seemed possible. But in the
end, what I got besides a redfishing adventure was a worldclass
angling education and a bunch of new friends. How
can you stay sad after a fantastic catch like that?
John Kumiski is a Saltwater Fly Fishing contributing editor and
the author of Redfish on the Fly, Argonaut Publishing, 2006. |